| Installation Guide - Index | |
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•
Guide to Laying
Panels • Before You Start • Margins • Filling In |
•
King Planks • Caulking • Joining Extrusions • Hatch Corners |
Here we present a guide on how one might go
about covering the foredeck of a sailing boat
for those looking to install Tek-Dek themselves.
This is intended as a guide only - there may be
a better way of doing certain things. If you
have a motorboat then things are normally
easier, as the runs tend to be straight. Margins
on a motorboat will be tackled in much the same
way.
The ideas on this page have been developed from proven techniques and feedback from the Tek-Dek installers. These instructions include some tricks of the trade and some great ideas to ensure that your job goes smoothly.
Before You Start
Tools required:
Craft Knife,
2 to 2 1/2 inch Chisel, Small Square,
Marking Pen, Glue Spreader, 12" Rule.
Remove any deck gear that you want to lay on top of the new deck, Tek-Dek is quite capable of supporting winches, stanchions etc. You may leave any large or hard to remove items and lay/cut around them. You should eventually end up with something like Fig. 1...

Margins
The first stage of any project is to lay the
margins. See Fig 2 below. Either TD-7601 or
TD-7602/3/5 are suitable, so how do I select
which one to use? If you want to go close to
a vertical edge and are going to caulk this
gap, then the TD-7601 is the one. If you
want a nice radiused edge effect then the
TD-7602/3/5 should be used.

You first need to cut and fit every piece of
Tek-Dek is cut and fitted in a "dry run"
before it is glued down. Cut all the margins
first, making sure that all joins are a
reasonably good fit. Allow a gap of about
1/16 to 1/8 inch as the caulking grooves
will need to be cut later. Deck hatch
corners and king planks are described in
more detail later. It is important that the
groove is showing inboard so the next strip
will easily clip into the previous one.
Mark the outside edge of the margin on the decks with a pen or pencil then remove them and mask up to the pencil lines with 2" masking tape. This is to ensure that any excess glue can easily be removed before the next stage.
For the next part you will need plenty of weights. Lead is ideal but bricks, club hammers, small anvils, in fact anything heavy, would be fine.
Mix up enough glue to lay the margins. Spread out the glue and apply the margins. You will have approximately 30 minutes before the adhesive "starts to cure". This time will vary according to the ambient temperature, the warmer the temperature, the faster the cure.
Now weight the Tek-Dek making sure none is lifting, an ideal way to do this is by laying flat wood on top and then weighting this at regular intervals. Leave 24 hours to cure.
Filling In
Select which side you are going to work on
and start with the outboard edge, work
inwards feeding the TD-7600 into the
margins' groove. "Dry lay" by cutting in as
tight as possible to the margins. A 1/8 to
1/16 inch gap is acceptable. Please read the
relevant section below on King Planks now
so enough material is left for the snapping.
Once you have worked your way to the centre
of the boat you will have finished the first
side.
Now repeat for the other side. Your deck should look similar to Fig.3.

IMPORTANT - Do not join sections any larger than 20 square feet, as this is the limit in terms of working time and coverage of 4 lb of adhesive. (Experienced users can lay up to 60 square feet in one go if well prepared).
On small areas it may be possible to join the strips temporarily with duct tape or similar. Once extrusions are joined, check fit once more.
Once everything is joined it is advisable to sweep or vacuum the deck to remove any dirt or Tek-Dek off cuts. Now spread the adhesive evenly using the recommended Tek-Dek spreader (between 1 - 1.5 sausages will cover approximately 10 square feet).
Now, the decking has to be laid. Unroll it onto the bed of adhesive and push tongue and grooves together. Check that all decking is a good fit.
Now that the main areas are down it is VERY IMPORTANT to make sure that the adhesive enters the dovetails in the underside of the Tek-Dek extrusion. Use a roller or similar to apply an even pressure over the whole area. Ends, corners and any difficult areas, will now have to be weighted to stop them lifting. Keep inspecting your project every hour for about four hours to check for (and remedy) any lifting. Allow 24 hours to cure.
Repeat until all areas are covered.
King Planks
A king plank runs down the centre of the
boat and is made up from the TD-7606. See
Fig 4 below. If a wider plank is required,
then just join more widths together until
desired width is achieved. This constant
width plank is glued to the deck when the
margins and hatch corners are being laid.

Once dry the main deck is "dry laid" leaving
enough material to cover the king plank as
seen in the photo. This extra will be enough
to cut the ends of the main deck strips into
the king plank. cut main deck strips into
king plank using Fig 4 as a guide.
There are many variations on this theme so have a look around to see how boat builders have done it. Keep the gap quite tight (1/16 to 1/8 inch is ideal) as too large a gap will cause a problem later when you come to do the caulking.
Caulking
The areas
left for caulking will be where the main
decking meets the margins, the hatch and the
king plank. Start by measuring a 3/16 inch
gap from the good edge (i.e. from an outside
edge on a hatch radius) and marking onto the
Tek-Dek with a pen or similar. Next cut
along the line with a sharp craft knife
using a curved blade.
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The cut really needs to be down to the original deck to allow enough depth for the caulking. The gap now has to be chiseled out with a 3/16 chisel. On a painted steel or aluminum boat it is advisable to paint in some Epiglass or similar to reseal the paint if the knife or chisel has gone through to the steel / aluminum.
All the edges of the gaps now need to be masked before caulking can be applied. Once masked, cut off the end of the caulking tube with a craft knife. Make sure the nozzle is small enough to enter the gap. Fill gap with caulking until it just becomes proud of the Tek-Dek.
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Cut some small spreaders from an off cut of Tek-Dek and smooth the caulking out. Any excess will flow onto the masking tape. Remove masking tape immediately all gaps have been smoothed out.
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Joining
Extrusions
Once the deck
has been dry laid it will need to be glued
together using the Tek-Dek solvent glue.
Apply glue to grooves, or tongues using the
applicator supplied, and simply relay the
deck pushing each piece together. Leave for
2 hours. The decking is now ready to be
laid.
Hatch Corners
To deck round a hatch corner, join two or
more pieces of TD-7601 together using
Tek-Dek solvent glue until the resulting
section is large enough to allow the
appropriate corner radius to be cut out.
Alternately TD-7608P or TD-7606 can be used.
Make a template of the hatch corner required
using thin ply, MDF or card. Place this
template on the extrusion assembly and mark
out with a pen or pencil.
Cut out corners with a Stanley knife or similar, using a curved blade*

* The curved blade is not essential but does eliminate a certain amount of friction, and makes intricate or curved cuts easier.






